Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Current fundraiser
Recent Posts
[Today at 10:31:52 AM]

[Today at 10:28:01 AM]

[Today at 10:23:12 AM]

[Yesterday at 07:23:17 PM]

[Yesterday at 05:08:14 PM]

[Yesterday at 04:38:03 PM]

[Yesterday at 02:33:22 PM]

[Yesterday at 02:32:48 PM]

[Yesterday at 10:48:32 AM]

[Yesterday at 04:07:19 AM]
OPR Theme-o-matic

Locations of visitors to this page
Total Members: 1579
New This Month: 8
New This Week: 2
New Today: 0
Memorial Day

Birthdays:
PaulG (51), Pelican (58), melrcomp (35), PhotoPhixUp (64), jaycymru (40), ophiuci (32), PaulD (48)

Events:
There are no events today.
Harmon 4X4

quite damaged

Love Birds

The Grand Hotel

Pages: 1 [2]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Need guidance please  (Read 1440 times)
Judy
OPR Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 75


« Reply #15 on: July 15, 2011, 06:07:37 PM »

Kate,

I am a little confused, on your reply #9, there are folds of fabric under the boy's leg as there is in Kiska's.  Somehow your removed them by the last version in playing with the rug I suppose, and it is my impression that is why the leg looks malformed.

I don't see anything much wrong with the right arm though I might try (probably unsuccessfully) to reduce the shadows beneath the elbow that makes the shirt look like it is clinging to the arm.  It could have just been twisted, however, and looked weird on the original.  Such things are possible!

Judy
Logged
glennab
OPR Master
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Gulfport (St. Petersburg), Florida
Posts: 3073



« Reply #16 on: July 15, 2011, 08:24:12 PM »

Hi Kate

I'm coming in a bit late on this, but I wanted to post the image I color corrected using both Curves and Levels, as well as the rather down and dirty way I recreated the fur of the rug for the right side of the bottom.  It needs to be worked on more, but I'll tell you what I think is the best way to handle it.  First I'll post the image:



I used the healing and patch tools intermittently for the rug.  I sampled small areas from the good portion under his leg on the left and in the left corner and kept adding to the samples until I filled up a decent-sized area.  I kept sampling until I got rid of obvious repeats in the pattern and shading until I got something that looked okay (as I said, it's down and dirty, but gives you an idea).  A lot of the background cleanup was done by selecting bad areas and then filling them with content-aware fill.  That worked really well.

Something that I just learned in a tutorial - and I may be way behind the times on this - is the clone source menu.  It's amazing.  I just cloned one striped area on the sleeve and asked the clone source to rotate it 180 degrees.  Probably the best way to accomplish a credible copy of the good arm would be to clone each section to its own layer and then tweak and distort as you need to.  But the clone source will give you a good start.  Use a hard edge and 100% opacity and flow - then you can mask out anything that doesn't fit.

Also, I used calculations to get a B&W template for his leg.  I used gray and the blue channel and set the blend mode to pin light, then saved the image as an alpha channel.  I still find that calculations gives me the best template when I'm trying to see behind the muck.

Here's the image:


I hope this helps and doesn't confuse things.  I hate to see you get discouraged, because this little guy can be completely restored, and I think you can get a good color correction.  I know we all have different ways to go about these things, but I thought I'd share what works for me.  Since I've been retired for more than a year now, I've spent a lot of time taking webinars and tutorials, and have discovered some wonderful new ways to defeat these stinkers.

BTW, it looks to me as if his trousers have a pattern on them.  It's faint, but it seems more than just debris.

Good luck!

GK

Once I posted this and could see the images, I realize that the rug still needs a lot of work. I still see obvious repeats.  But working at it will help with that.  And possibly the clone source will help move the direction of the fibers to a correct alignment.
Logged

You must give some time to your fellow men. Even if it's a little thing, do something for others - something for which you get no pay but the privilege of doing it. -Albert Schweitzer

(Photoshop CS5 /Mac Pro)
Oldfaded
OPR Long Time Hero
***
Offline Offline

Location: Vermont
Posts: 222



WWW
« Reply #17 on: July 15, 2011, 09:02:53 PM »

Glen I am stoked! I didnt now about the clone source area.. Im going along fast! and its looking good.
I will be getting off the computer before long but wanted to thank you very much.
Hopefully tomorrow I can finish up a bit more in the morning!
I have renewed faith! Smiley
Logged

KATE
Old Faded Memories
-------------
Adobe CS5
Corel Paint Shop Pro Photo X2
Oldfaded
OPR Long Time Hero
***
Offline Offline

Location: Vermont
Posts: 222



WWW
« Reply #18 on: July 15, 2011, 09:20:31 PM »

Just a real quickie to show that I 'got' the use of the new clone source tools! that is really a wonderful thing. All I did was the reconstruct the arm, and that is a rough attempt.
-----

-----
Logged

KATE
Old Faded Memories
-------------
Adobe CS5
Corel Paint Shop Pro Photo X2
glennab
OPR Master
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Gulfport (St. Petersburg), Florida
Posts: 3073



« Reply #19 on: July 15, 2011, 09:33:49 PM »

Kate: One word: Awe Some!  Looks great.  GK
Logged

You must give some time to your fellow men. Even if it's a little thing, do something for others - something for which you get no pay but the privilege of doing it. -Albert Schweitzer

(Photoshop CS5 /Mac Pro)
Oldfaded
OPR Long Time Hero
***
Offline Offline

Location: Vermont
Posts: 222



WWW
« Reply #20 on: July 16, 2011, 11:05:04 AM »

Its a little bit better, I think, but I think someone else could do much better than I ..hehe need more practice. Smiley
-----

----
I AM loving the new clone technique!! THAT is awesome! Smiley
Logged

KATE
Old Faded Memories
-------------
Adobe CS5
Corel Paint Shop Pro Photo X2
Hannie
Board Moderator
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Posts: 3093



WWW
« Reply #21 on: July 17, 2011, 03:52:19 AM »

Kate, the only thing that you need to redo some are the levels and curves adjustments like Kiska described on the first page of this topic and you're ready to go!

Hannie
Logged

Hannie Scheltema
Distribution Coordinator
hannie@operationphotorescue.org
Oldfaded
OPR Long Time Hero
***
Offline Offline

Location: Vermont
Posts: 222



WWW
« Reply #22 on: July 17, 2011, 06:49:41 AM »

Thanks Hannie!
--


--
Logged

KATE
Old Faded Memories
-------------
Adobe CS5
Corel Paint Shop Pro Photo X2
Hannie
Board Moderator
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Posts: 3093



WWW
« Reply #23 on: July 17, 2011, 07:12:08 AM »

Looks great Kate!

I think you work in Adobe RGB (1998) color profile, that is fine but when you upload to Photobucket (and to Photoshelter after you're done) you should convert to sRGB IEC61966-2.1
You can do this by going to the menu Edit>Convert to Profile.

The curves adjustment layers, here are the spots that I picked.  (black and white on one adj. layer and grey on a new one)
The grey spot you wanted to choose different ones till you find one that looks natural.

Hannie

Logged

Hannie Scheltema
Distribution Coordinator
hannie@operationphotorescue.org
Oldfaded
OPR Long Time Hero
***
Offline Offline

Location: Vermont
Posts: 222



WWW
« Reply #24 on: July 17, 2011, 07:24:00 AM »

 Embarrassed Im ashamed to say I did that, and for me I kept coming up with a too noticeable blue to the photo, so (hands head) I used 'auto' adjust instead of using my dropper......
I took a look at the 'convert to profile' adjustment, this is what I see, now to me it looks like it is showing the final in rgb, and my destination spaces for adjustments are all preset?, dont know that I understand that much.
---


--
Logged

KATE
Old Faded Memories
-------------
Adobe CS5
Corel Paint Shop Pro Photo X2
Hannie
Board Moderator
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Posts: 3093



WWW
« Reply #25 on: July 17, 2011, 07:40:45 AM »

No need to go to the Advanced tab.
This image will show you how convert to sRGB IEC61966-2.1, also check off the "Flatten Image"box.
http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=12699214

Hannie
Logged

Hannie Scheltema
Distribution Coordinator
hannie@operationphotorescue.org
Oldfaded
OPR Long Time Hero
***
Offline Offline

Location: Vermont
Posts: 222



WWW
« Reply #26 on: July 17, 2011, 07:44:41 AM »

ah yes, ok, and if I do that, do I need to keep going back and forth? or can I just reset that and forget about it.
I really dont want to have to reset that before uploading to OPR etc... Sad Im going to need a long check list....hehehe
Logged

KATE
Old Faded Memories
-------------
Adobe CS5
Corel Paint Shop Pro Photo X2
Hannie
Board Moderator
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Posts: 3093



WWW
« Reply #27 on: July 17, 2011, 08:00:36 AM »

Normally when you download a photo to restore the color profile is sRGB IEC61966-2.1 already so you don't have to do anything.  I noticed a few floating around that are Adobe RGB (1998).  Or perhaps you prefer to work in Adobe RGB (1998), if so then you only have convert to sRGB IEC61966-2.1 when you have finished your restore and it is ready to be uploaded to Photoshelter.

I you choose to work in Adobe RGB (1998) and want to post on the forum you can make a copy of your photo and convert to sRGB IEC61966-2.1 before you upload to Photobucket.  It will show the colors better on the forum then Adobe RGB (1998) would.

Hope this makes sense.

Hannie

Logged

Hannie Scheltema
Distribution Coordinator
hannie@operationphotorescue.org
Oldfaded
OPR Long Time Hero
***
Offline Offline

Location: Vermont
Posts: 222



WWW
« Reply #28 on: July 17, 2011, 08:05:04 AM »

yes it does Hannie. Thank you for explaining that for me. Smiley
Logged

KATE
Old Faded Memories
-------------
Adobe CS5
Corel Paint Shop Pro Photo X2
Pages: 1 [2]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to: